Schwaebish Hall (or in German Schwäbish Hall) is one of the many small medieval towns that are great to visit in Germany. If you are speed traveling through Europe and only visiting the cities; you will miss out on one of these jems.
The "Hall" in the name Schwaebish Hall indicates that the city has salt. Translated, "Hall" means "fountain of salt". All German cities with salt will be called "something-something" Hall.
The region of Schwaebish Hall was inhabited by the Celts since the 5th century BC, but it wasn't considered a town until 1204. The people of Schwabish Hall were able to defend themselves against the claims of noble families to their lands and up until 1801 the town was an Imperial Free City and not under the rule of any Duke or King. In 1802 Napoleon granted the Duke of Wurttemberg control over the city and the salt works. The town then stagnated, people moved away, and new buildings were not built again until the 1920's and 1930's. After WWII Americans inhabited the town for awhile at a base that has since closed. Today the town survives from tourism and is home to a housing credit company.
Schwaebish Hall itself is absolutely beautiful and isn't as overcrowded with tourists as the more popular Rothenburg ob der Traube. There were two large fires in Schwaebish Hall in 1680 and 1728 that destroyed much of the city. Many buildings still date to the rebuilding after the second fire. You will notice that many of the buildings jut out over the streets. In Schwaebish Hall the land that your home was sitting on was taxed, not the actual size your your home. If you could build out over the road you were be able to get more space and pay less taxes.
A view of a large building that was used to collect taxes. Taxes in those time consisted of grain, salt, dried meat, etc.
The Church Stairs, or Play Stage. Every summer plays are performed outside of St. Michael's Church.
Taxes are also why many German houses do not have closets and Germans are more accustomed to wardrobes. Back in the day Germans were taxed on the number of rooms in their home. A closet was considered a separate room, so people used wardrobes to avoid extra taxes.
Also take a look at the road while touring Schwaebish Hall. It seems very high up in places compared to the buildings. In some spots you can look right into someones garage or there are small steps from the road, down, to the door. This is because through the years the road has seen so much wear and tear that it has to be rebuilt time and time again. After a few hundred years of road rebuilding the road is going to be significantly higher than it was originally when the homes where built. Watch your head because it also means that the outcropping buildings isn't above your head but right in a good place to bump yourself on.
The Gothic Pillory in Schäbish Hall, Please don't lock up your children!
Attractions:
St. Micheal's Church
Building began in 1156 for this church. (It was originally a Catholic church, but changed to Protestant). One thing to notice is the paintings of many church donors around the sides of the church by the alters. They are eerie to look at and are written in German (Protestants challenged the Latin language monopoly of Catholicism and brought religion to the people in their own language). Also behind the alter is an opening in the floor with a light that shines into a room filled with organized human bones. There are skulls, leg bones, arm bones, etc. No one knows why they are there or where they come from. There must be the remains of hundreds of people.
Outside the church is a huge staircase that leads to the church doors. The staircase doubles as a play stage in the summer months. For years plays have been performed on the steps to create a unique theatre experience.
Visit Schwäbish Hall's website for dates and times.
Opposite St. Micheal's Church is the impressive town hall.
In the church courtyard is a small cafe that is an excellent place to grab a coffee or ice cream and watch the people go by. You can also pose on the Gothic pillory from the early 16th century that is outside of the cafe.
Spend the rest of your time exploring the picturesque Old City. Walk around the town walls or along the river, stop to shop at one of the many small shops, or just rest by the water with a beer. If you have extra time the town museum is easy to find (centrally located downtown) and is very complete.
